2016 年初,在領教工坊的黃山論壇有幸結識不跟團的創始人大龍寬,回京後幾次探討不跟團人生玩家旅遊項目時結識了淮楊府的洛揚,師從「舌尖上的江南刀客」周曉燕教援的洛揚,學的不單是技藝,更多的是對美食本味更純粹的追求。一道黑松露文絲豆腐創新出淮陽菜的新水墨藝術。

更有意思的是,洛揚的第一份工作是九七年揚州迎賓館的服務生,相似之處是我在八四年也曾有過一年西餐服務生的工作經歷。當初服務意識的工作態度對之後的事業發展起到了一定作用。受用終生。


北京淮揚府店總:洛揚


文思豆腐羹

八十年代初的民族飯店,做為早期的涉外飯店除了外商常駐機構,主要接待文化體育界國際團體。作為新上崗的學員親自為拳王阿里、《末代皇帝》導演貝納爾多 • 貝托魯奇等人服務。當年大多國內外賓客尤為贊賞的幾道特色菜至今記憶猶新:民族里脊片、高加索里脊絲、黃油雞卷、德國肘子……

當年的記憶被2016年中的一次聚會重新喚起。姚宗義,當年的廚師哥們兒,為這次的聚會幾天前精心備料準備了「德國酸菜肘子」,肥而不膩,爽口嫩滑,還解酒暖胃。三十年前味蕾記憶猶存……


山先生(劉山)與原民族飯店主廚姚宗義


德國酸菜肘子

惜福,福於親朋摯友的恩賞。

山廚夜火深,三五好友,高梁酒配肘子。幾分俠氣的中西菜品混搭促成了【山先生的廚房】落地亞洲藝術中心的新年貴賓饕宴。






Early in 2016, I was lucky to have been acquainted with Da Longkuan, the founder of Bugentuan customized travel website, at the Mount Huang Forum organized by Leadership Beyond Boundaries. When I was back to Beijing, I have discussed with others about the Bugentuan’s「Joylife」 projects for several times, during which I was acquainted with Luo Yang in Huaiyang Mansion. Following Zhou Xiaoyan, known as 「A bite of Jiangnan Man 」, Luo Yang has learned not only culinary skills, but also a pure quest for delicious food. The dish 「Perigord Truffle WensiToufu」 creatively produces the new ink art in Huaiyang cuisine.

More interestingly, Luo Yang got his first job as a waiter in Yangzhou Guest House in 1997. Similarly, I also had one year’s experience of serving as a waiter in western restaurant in 1984. The service awareness and work attitude developed during that period has played a role in my subsequent career development, benefiting me a lot.

As the early restaurants serving foreigners, the national restaurants in the early 1980s mainly targets the international groups in the cultural and gymnastic domains apart from foreign resident offices. I, as a new comer, served personally for guests like Ali, the boxer, and Bernardo Bertolucci, the director of the Last Emperor. Some special dishes, which were praised by most guests from home and abroad, still remain fresh in my memory: National Tenderloin Slices, Caucasus Tenderloin Slices, Chicken Rolls Flavored with Butter, German-flavor Pork Hock, etc.

Memories of that time were recalled by a party in the middle of 2016. Yao Zongyi, a friend who was the cook back then, carefully prepared the ingredients of German-flavoured Pork Hock with Sauerkraut for the party several days ahead. The dish was agreeably fatty, tasted tender and soft and could even counter the effect of drinking and warm the stomach. The memory of the taste 30 years ago still lingers over…

Let’s cherish the blessing, the blessing of reward from our relatives and friends.

What a wonderful time to drink sorghum liquor in bowls and eat pork hock with several friends deep into the night by the fire. The combination of several Chinese and western dishes with some chivalry gives birth to the New Year’s Honored Guests Banquet to mark the landing of Mr. Shan’s Kitchen in Asia Art Center.


小茶婆婆老茶會



古城老院酒店米其林甜品


熊爺


熊爺雪茄品鑒